tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6329800590020207432024-03-21T21:58:10.455+00:00Lawn and Turf CareAdvice and tips on all aspects of lawn and turf careSimonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-73584214485331247742012-10-30T20:39:00.000+00:002012-10-30T20:46:39.684+00:00Fairy Rings in the Lawn<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYUHSyB57kzyNljdG7_8RX9h15dkiRhRXqyfYp9Ja-hiqj4VDKu67Kofs_KX6UfZxwUa2k6D7c5rKsdoKyVodz9DoslSaCUlv2dVs5xIA3Aurn1iXLnDB-ykfWXBLn2oSJZcNEJkkJPqU/s1600/fairy-ring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="fairy ring" border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYUHSyB57kzyNljdG7_8RX9h15dkiRhRXqyfYp9Ja-hiqj4VDKu67Kofs_KX6UfZxwUa2k6D7c5rKsdoKyVodz9DoslSaCUlv2dVs5xIA3Aurn1iXLnDB-ykfWXBLn2oSJZcNEJkkJPqU/s320/fairy-ring.jpg" title="Type 1 Fairy Ring" width="320" /></a></div>
Fairy Rings which are caused by fungi start to show signs of activity during the
end of spring or early summer. They are easily recognisable with distinct dark
green rings and/or fruiting bodies including mushrooms, toadstools and
puffballs. The rings can be full or part circle.<br />
<br />
Although there are thousands of types
of fungi that cause these rings, there are in fact only 3 types of Fairy Ring,
each having different characteristics. Fairy Rings start from a central point and gradually increase in size, with
the rings getting larger as time passes. In most cases they increase about 80mm
- 150mm in size each year.<br />
<br />
Fairy Rings degrade the organic matter in the lawn,
it is then broken down by micro organisms and released as nitrogen. The nitrogen
is then made available for plant uptake, giving the lawn its distinct dark green
ring.<br />
They can be found in all types of lawns and turf, including luxury lawns,
golf greens, sports fields and neglected turf.<br />
<br />
There are 3 types of Fairy
Ring.<br />
<ul>
<li><strong>Type 1 fairy ring:</strong> This type of Fairy Ring is the most
destructive and damaging as it produces a ring of dead grass. The dead area can
contain fruiting bodies in the form of mushrooms, toadstools and puffballs. If a
section of soil is removed from the dead area, white thread or hair like
structures called mycelium will be visible in the soil. Mycelium is hydrophobic
(water repellant) and it is this that produces the dry patch, causing the grass
to die.
</li>
<li><strong>Type 2 fairy ring:</strong> Type 2 fairy rings are identified by
their dark green rings, with or without fruiting bodies. In fact it is similar
to a type 1 fairy ring without the dead ring of grass. At worst this type of
ring can appear unsightly with its lush growth, accompanied with fruiting
bodies.
</li>
<li><strong>Type 3 fairy ring:</strong> The most inconspicuous type of Fairy
Ring, as the dark ring of grass is absent. Only the ring of fruiting bodies will
be visible at different times of the year. The least damaging of the 3 types.
</li>
</ul>
<strong>Control of Fairy Rings</strong><br />
Fairy Rings can be masked with applications of nitrogen when they appear.
Nitrogen produces dark green grass growth helping the remaining lawn blend in
well with the Fairy Ring. However it is important to apply excessive nitrogen,
as it can lead to other lawn or turf problems.<br />
<br />
If you are dealing with a type 1 Fairy Ring regularly soaking the infected
area and treating it with a wetting agent may help. However this should be
undertaken before the soil gets too dry, or it may prove very difficult to
re-wet.<br />
<br />
The final option is to remove the Fairy Ring from the lawn, golf green etc,
by digging it out. Remove all of the soil from inside the ring and 500mm from
the outside edge the ring, this needs doing to a depth of 300mm.<br />
<br />
It is important
not to drop any of the infected soil onto the healthy turf, so take extreme care
when doing this task. Replace the soil that has been removed with fresh soil and
re-seed. This method is only recommended as a last resort.<br />
<br />
Although fungicides are available for Fairy Rings results may be mixed and in
many cases unsuccessful. Many gardeners can accept types 2 & 3, it is type 1
that gives the most problems.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-46262012641237230922012-10-30T18:11:00.004+00:002012-10-30T19:14:07.046+00:00Soil Compaction in the Lawn<strong>
What is soil compaction</strong><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9C6aDpQdJ0b13o_nm-H010yyMqoIzKNfCrVySSJGXBdo5zjW9Co-YEnZWrgSTqWr4eQxp9VjE2ViM2AUS5rqVdWuOQWe_af_FNT5_ICLuVxsaaNiNiPY3SulZr6c-qvSTdfgukdclUU/s1600/verti-drain-soil-compaction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9C6aDpQdJ0b13o_nm-H010yyMqoIzKNfCrVySSJGXBdo5zjW9Co-YEnZWrgSTqWr4eQxp9VjE2ViM2AUS5rqVdWuOQWe_af_FNT5_ICLuVxsaaNiNiPY3SulZr6c-qvSTdfgukdclUU/s320/verti-drain-soil-compaction.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Most lawns will have or will experience the affects of soil compaction during their lifetime.
All soils require a certain percentage of air in order to support a healthy lawn.<br />
<br />
Soil compaction occurs when the majority of the air is squeezed out of the soil by excess
traffic. The traffic can include garden machinery such as mowers, vehicles like cars or people using the lawn.<br />
<br />
The more traffic the lawn receives the greater the compaction, is likely to be and the soil particles are pushed
together reducing the amount of pore space available for air.<br />
<br />
Generally speaking soils with a high content of clay are more prone to compaction than sandy soils. This is
because clay has a smaller particle size than sand and the air is squeezed out more easily, especially when the
soil is wet.<br />
<br />
When soils become compacted the following happens:<br />
<ul>
<li>Air space is reduced.</li>
<li>Root growth is restricted and shallow rooted weed grasses invade at the expense of the deeper rooted
desirable grasses.</li>
<li>Drainage is impeded and water logging and puddling become the norm.</li>
<li>As root growth is shallow, then the lawn becomes very susceptible to drought conditions.</li>
<li>The lawn is open to attack from pests such as broad-leaved weeds and disease, as growth is likely to be
thin and the grass plant will be unhealthy.</li>
<li>As the grass becomes stressed due to soil compaction, nutrient uptake is generally poorer
than on healthy turf.</li>
<li>The thatch layer will build up quicker, as the micro organisms, which breakdown the thatch in the lawn,
require air to survive.</li>
</ul>
All of the above symptoms and conditions, result in a weak lawn and something must be done to restore the lawn
to its former health.<br />
A good way to test if you have soil compaction is to push a garden fork or soil profiler into
the lawn. If there is too much resistance, you may have compaction and steps will have to be taken to address the
issue.<br />
<br />
<strong>
Controlling soil compaction</strong><br />
<br />
Compaction can be relieved using some form of lawn aeration. In fact regular
aeration should be carried out at least once a year on most lawns. Clay soils may need additional aeration they are
more at risk to compaction than light sandy soils.<br />
<br />
There is a variety of aeration equipment and tools available to the amateur gardener to combat soil
compaction. These include hand forks, hand corers and powered spikers and corers. For more information on
these you can visit our lawn aeration and lawn
aerators page.<br />
<br />
Once you have successfully controlled compaction it is important to prevent it from returning by aerating the
lawn on a regular basis. Aerate at least once a year, twice if you soil is prone to soil
compaction.<br />
<br />
Aeration is regularly carried out on sports turf such as football fields, golf and bowling greens. Turf
professionals know the ills of soil compaction and do something about it prior to it becoming a problem. Sports
turf receives a large amount of traffic and regular routine aeration is required to prevent soil
compaction.<br />
<br />
Turf professionals have a variety aerators at their disposal. These aerators include verti-drain machines which
heave shatter the soil, hollow tine machines which remove cores of thatch and soil, shallow spikers, air injection
aerators and more.<br />
<br />
Each machine has its own benefits and uses in the battle against compaction. Another important factor is that
turf professionals vary the depth of aeration to stop a pan forming in the soil.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-52880989311972790422012-10-30T17:35:00.003+00:002012-10-30T21:34:00.288+00:00Sulphate of Iron on LawnsSulphate of Iron is one of the most widely used products in the professional turf
care industry. This is because it is very versatile, it had many uses and is also
relatively cheap to purchase.
This product is primarily used for controlling moss during the spring months,
however it can also be used to help prevent certain lawn diseases and discourage
earthworm activity, thus preventing worm casts.<br />
<br />
It is also a great product for giving the
lawn a quick green up, particularly during the winter months when the grass is looking yellow and tired. <br />
<br />
<b>Moss Control</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJnTRR1pjm6ygxZ3S95JuZi2CO7EqYnLymnrE3OPeq54ABmSIGR42SrVgO5igKq0gHhsRAbI1ut5kQZ4rreiq-dh8PJQ7Mf1T2GNWnigw-j_tyzlwyhcN-8-wrP9TJ7fiEc80Gv4iT5-o/s1600/moss-control-sulphate-iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="moss control with sulphate of iron" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJnTRR1pjm6ygxZ3S95JuZi2CO7EqYnLymnrE3OPeq54ABmSIGR42SrVgO5igKq0gHhsRAbI1ut5kQZ4rreiq-dh8PJQ7Mf1T2GNWnigw-j_tyzlwyhcN-8-wrP9TJ7fiEc80Gv4iT5-o/s1600/moss-control-sulphate-iron.jpg" title="Moss control with sulphate of iron" /></a></div>
For many generations sulphate of iron has been the best product for controlling
moss in the lawn. It is one of the main ingredients in lawn sand. Lawn sand is made up of:
<br />
<ul>
<li>Sulphate of Iron - This product controls the moss in the lawn. </li>
<li> Sulphate of Ammonia - This is a nitrogen based fertiliser which creates rapid
grass growth, thus helping the lawn recover rapidly once the moss has been
killed and removed. </li>
<li> Sand - This is simply used as a carrier to bulk the product up. This helps with the
application of the product.</li>
</ul>
Lawn sand should be applied during the spring time when grass growth is just
getting started. After 2 weeks the moss should have been killed sufficiently for it
to be removed from the lawn with a powered lawn rake or scarifier.<br />
<br />
Sulphate of iron is also Incorporated into many other lawn feed products used for
moss control. Most fertiliser companies have weed feed and moss control
products. The vast majority of these products contain sulphate of iron.<br />
<br />
<b>Worm Suppression </b><br />
<br />
Worm casts can be a major nuisance during the autumn and winter months when
the conditions are wet and humid. As Iron sulphate acidifies the surface of the
lawn this helps discourage worm activity, as worms don't like acidic conditions. <br />
<br />
Sulphate of Iron applied every 4 - 6 weeks at a rate of 10g/m2 during periods of
worm activity, can help reduce worm numbers thus reducing the number of worm
casts. Worms tend to be more problematic on heavy clay soils rather than lighter sandy soils.<br />
<br />
<b>Disease Prevention</b><br />
<br />
Although turf diseases are not an issue on most typical garden lawns they can be a major headache on closely mown sports turf such as golf and bowling greens. For these reasons sulphate of iron is also regularly used in conjunction with turf fungicides to help prevent and control disease, especially fusarium patch disease.<br />
<br />
Applying this product every 4 - 6 weeks at 10g/m2 will help prevent any fusarium patch disease
problems.<br />
<br />
<b>Application Methods</b><br />
<br />
Sulphate of Iron is readily available in a powder form, and although it can be applied in this form it
best dissolved in hot water and applied through a sprayer or a watering can.
It is also important that it has dissolved properly as it can be prone to blocking sprayer nozzles if it hasn't been mixed enough.<br />
<br />
Take care when mixing, as Sulphate of Iron can stain clothes or concrete path
ways. If any solution is splashed onto your clothing wash them separately to other
garments as it may contaminate them too.
<br />
<br />
For sulphate of iron based products such as lawn sand and weed, feed and moss control products always follow the instructions on the packaging.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-83761403976660851102012-09-25T22:05:00.001+01:002012-09-25T22:06:20.682+01:00How high should I mow my lawnOne of the most common mowing questions is <strong>'how high should I cut my lawn'</strong>. In fact there is no
one answer to this question as it can depend on may factors:<br />
<br />
<strong>Quality of the lawn</strong> - If you are maintaining a luxury lawn you will want to mow it shorter than
someone who is maintaining a general purpose lawn. A luxury lawn would contain a high proportion of bents and
fescues, these grasses are very fine, produce a tight sward and tolerate close mowing. It should also be noted if
you are going to mow you lawn short, it will require a lot more maintainance and work to keep it in tip top
condition.<br />
<br />
<strong>Weather conditions</strong> - As the weather can be very unpredictable, you have to adjust your height
of cut accordingly. E.g During periods of drought the lawn will come under a lot more stress and the height of cut
may have to be raised to help the lawn cope.<br />
<br />
<strong>Wear and tear on the lawn</strong> - A lawn that receives a vast amount of wear and tear would suffer if
it was mown very short, so the height would have to adjusted accordingly to help the lawn retain grass cover.<br />
<br />
<strong>Soil type</strong> - Although the soil type would not have direct affect on the mowing height, soils of
a sandy nature would suffer more in dry conditions. Lifting the height of the mower would help relieve some of
stress on the grass caused by the adverse weather conditions.<br />
<br />
<strong>Time of the year</strong> - Grass can be mown somewhat shorter during the summer moths where growth is
stronger than in the winter months where growth is lacking.<br />
<h3>
Guide for lawn and grass cutting heights</h3>
Luxury lawns - During the summer months acceptable heights would vary from 10mm to 15mm raising it in the winter
to 20mm.<br />
Utility lawns - During the summer a height between 20mm - 25mm would be ideal, then during winter raise it to
30mm.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-59050352311178182272012-09-25T21:27:00.001+01:002012-09-25T22:04:01.682+01:00Choosing the right mower for your lawnAs a lawn mower is the most widely used piece of equipment on the lawn it is very important that you choose the
right type of mower to begin with. A good lawn mower that is correctly set up and maintained is essential to the
health and appearance of the lawn.<br />
The problem is nowadays there are many types of lawn mower to choose from it can become a bit confusing for the
gardener to tell which is best type for their lawn. Lawn mowers can be walk behind or ride on, cylinder or rotary
and powered by petrol, diesel or electric.<br />
<h3>
Types of lawn mower</h3>
There are two main types of lawn mower, these are cylinder and rotary mowers, each has advantages and
disadvantages for different types and sizes of lawn.<br />
<ul>
<li>
<h3>
Cylinder lawn mower</h3>
This type of lawn mower is the best option if you want a first rate luxury lawn as the quality of cut is
so much better than that of a rotary lawn mower. They are available as both walk behind and ride on,
however for most situations a pedestrian walk behind mower will be the preferred choice as ride on cylinder
mowers can be very expensive.<br />
A cylinder mower has series of blades mounted onto a central spindle, these blades can number anywhere
between 4 to 12, (more blades produces a better quality cut). It also consists of another fixed bottom
blade running parallel to the surface of the lawn and the central spindle. As the spindle rotates, it traps
the grass against the fixed bottom blade and it is cut with a scissor type action. This type of cutting
action leaves a very professional finish on the lawn especially at low cutting heights. However with these
mowers you have to mow the lawn on a regular basis as cylinder mowers do not cope well with overgrown
lawns.<br />
A cylinder mower will generally have two rollers fitted, a large roller on the rear and a smaller roller
at the front of the mower. The rear roller drives the mower and in certain cases drives the cutting
cylinder. The front roller is where the height of cut is adjusted as it supports the mower. <strong>N.
b.</strong> On some cylinder mowers the H.O.C is adjusted on the rear roller. It is the rollers on a lawn
mower that produce the light green / dark green stripes on a lawn.<br />
Almost all cylinder mowers come with a grass box to remove the grass clippings. If you desire a high
quality lawn it is very important that clippings are removed from the lawn. If clippings are left on the
surface of the lawn they can increase the rate of thatch build up.<br />
A cylinder mower is more costly to purchase and maintain than a rotary mower.<br />
</li>
<li>
<h3>
Rotary lawn mower</h3>
A rotary lawn mower is the most common type of mower due to its ease of maintenance, cheaper purchase
price and suitability to a wide range of lawns. If you want a general purpose utility lawn, a rotary mower
would be the obvious choice.<br />
A rotary lawn mower cuts the grass using a single / multiple blades, these blades are mounted parallel
to the lawn and rotate quickly cutting the grass with a slicing action. It is important that the blade /
blades are kept sharp to prevent damage to both the lawn and the mower.<br />
A rotary lawn mower will not give as good a quality finish as a top end cylinder mower. However in
recent years improvements have been made on rotary mowers and they can give a very acceptable finish for
most gardeners and lawn care enthusiasts.<br />
This type of mower is ideal if you have a habit of letting the lawn get a little overgrown as they
perform quite well in these situations, where lawn is a little longer.<br />
<br />
Some rotary mowers come with grass boxes to remove the grass clippings, and some have a rear roller fitted
to give a nice striped appearance.<br />
<br />
<strong>Flymo hover mowers</strong> - Another type of very popular rotary mower is the Flymo. The cutting
action is the same as other rotary mowers, the difference being is that there are no wheels as it rides on
a cushion of air. When the engine is running, an 'impeller' produces a powerful jet of air causing the
mower to float on the surface of the lawn. These mowers are very manoeuvrable and ideal for tight spaces,
steep banks and uneven lawns.<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h3>
How are lawn mowers powered</h3>
A lawn mower can be powered or driven by a different methods, these being petrol, diesel, electric, battery and
hand, each has is own advantages and disadvantages.<br />
<ul>
<li>
<h3>
Hand powered mowers</h3>
This type of lawn mower will always be a cylinder mower, it is simply pushed across the lawn under
pedestrian power. Although they can be hard work, they are quiet in use, useful on small lawns with tight
areas and of course have no running costs to speak of.<br />
</li>
<li>
<h3>
Electric powered mowers</h3>
Available in both rotary and cylinder mowers these mowers are generally cheaper than petrol and diesel
powered mowers. The electric power source powers the cutting blade, this means the mower still has to be
manually pushed across the lawn. The big disadvantage with this type of lawn mowers is the cable, which has
to be kept out of the way and will only stretch so far. A good choice for small lawns where manoeuvrability
is not a problem.<br />
</li>
<li>
<h3>
Petrol & diesel powered mowers</h3>
Many pedestrian cylinder and rotary mowers run on petrol,
although more costly than the others, this is the most preferred and easiest method of powering a mower.
This method is suitable for most types of lawn. Larger ride on mowers can be both petrol or diesel powered,
these ride on mowers will generally be rotary mowers and are ideal for large areas. Ride on cylinder mowers
are available but are very expensive and are predominantly used in the professional turf care industry.
</li>
</ul>
<h3>
Which type of lawn mower is best for my lawn</h3>
Using the information above and the chart below will enable you to make the correct choice of lawn mower.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" border="1" bordercolor="#999999" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" style="background-color: #e1e0d8; width: 580px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td align="left" style="width: 80px;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top">Push Cylinder</td>
<td align="left" valign="top">Electric Cylinder</td>
<td align="left" valign="top">Petrol Cylinder</td>
<td align="left" valign="top">Electric Rotary</td>
<td align="left" valign="top">Petrol Rotary</td>
<td align="left" valign="top">Ride-on Mower</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" id="__tmpTD" valign="top">Small lawn</td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top">Large lawn</td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top">Luxury lawn</td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top">Utility lawn</td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top">Bumpy lawn</td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top">Awkward</td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" id="__tmpTD" valign="top">Quiet</td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" valign="top">Inexpensive</td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: green;" valign="top"></td>
<td align="left" valign="top"></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-5414399556757974952012-09-17T19:41:00.001+01:002012-09-17T22:41:53.891+01:00Tips for overseeding a lawnOver seeding new grass seed into an existing lawn is always going to prove very difficult task. This is because the new seedlings will have to compete with the established grasses and they will need all the help they can get to ensure they not only germinate, but establish successfully too.<br />
<br />
However there are a few factors to take into consideration, and these can ultimately determine how successful your overseeding regime will be.
<ul>
<li><b>Soil Compaction</b> - Any soil or rootzone that suffers from extreme compaction will have a detrimental effect on any over seeding program. A compacted soil is a very poor environment for new seedlings to establish. Even established grasses struggle to grow on a compacted soil so what chance are new seedlings going to have? virtually none! A compacted soil will be devoid of oxygen, this will in turn lead to poor drainage, poor drought resistance, excessive thatch build, all to the detriment of your over seeding program. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>An Excessive Thatch Layer</b> - Thatch is the accumulation of organic matter that builds up between the grass sward and the soil. Although a little thatch is beneficial to the lawn, too much will see your over seeding program suffer. The ideal sowing depth for grass seed is usually just below the thatch layer with the seed just coming into contact with the soil. This is difficult to achieve if your lawn has an excessive layer thatch. If the grass seed is sown with in the thatch layer, it may well germinate but it will have a difficult time establishing successfully.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>The Temperature of the Soil</b> - One of the most important factors that will have a major influence on the success of your over seeding program is the soil temperature. This is one of the key reasons many people prefer the late summer over the spring for over seeding. This is because the soil is warmer in late summer which will aid grass seed germination and establishment. That said, there is no problem with over seeding during the spring, however the results maybe inconsistent and in some cases disappointing. In recent years we have experienced cold springs with overnight frosts, which havent been great for over seeding, often yielding very poor results.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Irrigation and watering</b> - The amount of water the lawn receives following overseeding will also play a part in the germination of the seed. All new seed requires water to establish successfully. However getting the balance right is important, apply just enough to maintain adequate soil moisture.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Mechanical operations prior to over seeding</b> - Carrying out key lawn maintenance tasks such as aeration or scarification and raking prior to overseeding will be very beneficial in helping the seed to germinate and establish successfully. These operations help open up the surface of the lawn creating a seed bed where the seed comes into contact with the rootzone. This will help promote both good germination and establishment of the seed.</li>
</ul>
<br />Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-44239220392976812482012-07-19T16:24:00.000+01:002012-07-19T19:13:43.537+01:00Anthracnose lawn disease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgptKTvJdEc2GiwhSr4PnLl1Xa7Y161QnsY-lLeziN2BZcYsMXaely1gbaUDmAU7r2flAlbYaXlgGCLjDXxo-EibRsmH76NFCO_ckCb8NV3-6I8ECYRuGgj4ZgDSyt3LX7Et1EAFdltujE/s1600/anthracnose-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="anthracnose lawn and turf disease" border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgptKTvJdEc2GiwhSr4PnLl1Xa7Y161QnsY-lLeziN2BZcYsMXaely1gbaUDmAU7r2flAlbYaXlgGCLjDXxo-EibRsmH76NFCO_ckCb8NV3-6I8ECYRuGgj4ZgDSyt3LX7Et1EAFdltujE/s400/anthracnose-b.jpg" title="Anthracnose" width="400" /></a></div>
Anthracnose is caused by the fungus Colletotrichum graminicola. It can attack most species of grass on the lawn
butannual meadow grass (Poa annua) is very susceptible (hence the previous name of this disease was 'Basal rot of
Poa annua'). Antracnose is a stress disease attacking grasses that are under stress due to environmental factors.
<br />
<h4>
Identification of anthracnose</h4>
Anthracnose usually appears on the lawn during the late summer and can persist well into winter, even into the
following spring. Be vigilant and look for annual meadow grass plants that are starting to turn yellow, with the
youngest leaf turning an orange to red colour on infected plants. As the severity of this disease increases the
patches can grow to 150mm in diameter and the base of the infected area turns black.<br />
<h4>
Causes of anthracnose</h4>
As we previously mentioned anthracnose is a stress disease so pay attention to keeping the lawn in a healthy
condition with good lawn care practices.<br />
<ul>
<li>
Ensure the lawn receives adequate nutrition, (however it is important not to over apply nitrogen during
the late summer and autumn as it may lead to problems with fusarium patch disease).<br />
</li>
<li>
Soil compaction can also influence anthracnose.<br />
</li>
<li>
Prolonged leaf wetness will encourage anthracnose to spread.<br />
</li>
<li>
Hot and dry conditions leading to drought stress, will encourage anthracnose.<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h4>
How to prevent and cure anthracnose</h4>
To put it simply pay attention to remedying the causes of anthracnose<br />
<ul>
<li>
Ensure the lawn receives adequate nutrition to keep the grass in healthy condition.<br />
</li>
<li>
Relive compaction with aeration, in the form of slitting, spiking or even hollowtining.<br />
</li>
<li>
As anthracnose predominantly attacks annual meadow grass reduce the amount of this grass in the
lawn by encouraging disease resistant grasses with good lawn care management practices.<br />
</li>
<li>
Raising the height of cut on the mower will also help reduce the stress levels of the grass and help
combat the spread of anthracnose.<br />
</li>
<li>
Reduce the time that the leaf surface remains wet by removing early morning dews.<br />
</li>
</ul>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-87214572628052298242012-07-19T15:19:00.000+01:002012-07-19T16:11:01.942+01:00Moles in the lawn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuNpd05mhq9oHN4tfeFPxtQTLcOikvUNrTeWsIjiXhqdncIrIZkguwnhrOUu6mDWV2ETiKHh8gUEd7YR4FsYrrXXjtrXEroPWQqYoLGqFWgdbynNuQJ9ORYyiXEvpVj6LKpi7dp7avRg/s1600/mole-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="moles in the lawn" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuNpd05mhq9oHN4tfeFPxtQTLcOikvUNrTeWsIjiXhqdncIrIZkguwnhrOUu6mDWV2ETiKHh8gUEd7YR4FsYrrXXjtrXEroPWQqYoLGqFWgdbynNuQJ9ORYyiXEvpVj6LKpi7dp7avRg/s1600/mole-b.jpg" title="Moles" /></a></div>
There are few lawn and turf problems that cause as much damage to the lawn, and frustration to the gardener as
moles. These creatures can cause widespread damage to all types of lawn. Moles create runs (tunnels) in the soil
beneath the surface of the lawn, as the runs are built the excess soil is pushed onto the surface of the lawn.
These tunnels can often cover a large area and affect the whole lawn.<br />
<br />
Moles are carnivorous creatures, their diet includes insects, grubs with their main food source being
earthworms. Moles are solitary creatures and can measure up to 20cm in length with soft velvety coloured fur that
is grey to black in colour. Moles have very powerful front limbs that act as shovels as the burrow underground,
they have a very keen sense of smell, they have good hearing but their eyesight is very poor.<br />
<h2>
Prevent & control moles</h2>
Preventing moles is easier said than done. To discourage these creatures you will need to remove the food
source, unfortunately removing the worms and other invertebrates can prove nigh impossible and isn't really necessary on a garden lawn.<br />
<br />
May people have tried to discourage moles with a variety of techniques. These include placing moth balls or
tipping cooking oil, or disinfectant into the runs. There are other methods but unless the moles are completely
removed they will most likely return.<br />
<br />
Trapping moles (there are many types of trap available) can prove very successful, however many people are
unhappy about harming these creatures. However trapping moles is a skilled job and quite often a professional has
to be employed for this method to be successful.<br />
<br />
The other method is to place phosphine gas tablets in the mole runs. These tablets are only available to lawn
care specialists with the relevant application licence. Even if these gas tablets are used there are strict legal
guidelines that have to be followed.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-62425354898269026112012-07-18T20:38:00.003+01:002012-07-19T19:24:11.620+01:00Worms and worm cast problems on lawns<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKw3OgLR7TrwZgvCiGmtxvv1pmr1aqLabeGVSmaebU6G76MVsPXTVLboXJCtIpO815112ISwLGhHzx-phiHxeov4MU7-Cnc-utDDx9Bbno_RnY5xjJA6m_F_opu4zPHdXd_WAPfvPHiCI/s1600/wormcasts-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="worm casts" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKw3OgLR7TrwZgvCiGmtxvv1pmr1aqLabeGVSmaebU6G76MVsPXTVLboXJCtIpO815112ISwLGhHzx-phiHxeov4MU7-Cnc-utDDx9Bbno_RnY5xjJA6m_F_opu4zPHdXd_WAPfvPHiCI/s1600/wormcasts-b.jpg" title="Worm Casts" /></a></div>
Worms are in many cases the gardeners friend as they provide a valuable contribution to the health of the lawn.
Worms keep the soil aerated and breakdown the organic matter helping control the thatch layer. In fact a large
population of worms points to a healthy soil.<br />
<br />
However, despite these benefits worms are often seen as a problem on lawns and other areas of turf as they produce casts. This is especially true if the root zone or soil has a high clay content. It this is the case then problems caused by worm casting may actually outweigh the benefits.<br />
<br />
On a clay soil the worm casts tend to smear on the surface and can actually muddy conditions On lawns with a lighter root zone worm casting will be less of a problem as the worm casts are more easily dispersed.
<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">There are many different species of worms, of which only 3 species actually produce
casts.</span><br />
<br />
Worms are a major problem on lawns during mild spells in the autumn and winter months when the soil becomes
wetter thus encouraging worm activity close to the surface of the lawn. During colder, frosty weather the worms
head deeper into the soil and are less problematic.<br />
<br />
Problems caused by worms and wormcasting include:<br />
<ul>
<li>
Wormcasts create muddy conditions.<br />
</li>
<li>
Encourages moles (worms are the food source of moles).<br />
</li>
<li>
Weed and weed grass invasion ( wormcasts create an ideal seedbed for weeds).<br />
</li>
<li>
If casting is very severe the levels of the lawn may be affected.<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h4>
What causes worms in lawns</h4>
As with most problems in lawn care, worms favour particular conditions to be present within the soil. These soil
conditions include:<br />
<ul>
<li>
Wet soil and mild temperatures - Worm are predominantly a nuisance on lawns during wet mild spells of
weather during the autumn and winter months. These conditions bring worm activity closer to the surface of
the lawn where casts are deposited.<br />
</li>
<li>
Soil type - Although worms may be present in all types of soil conditions, they are more of a problem in
soils with a high clay and high thatch (organic matter) content.<br />
</li>
<li>
The correct soil pH. Worms prefer soils with a high pH.<br />
</li>
<li>
High organic matter content. A soil with a high percentage of organic matter (thatch) will have a
greater population of worms as this is there food source.<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h4>
Preventing worms and wormcasts on the lawn</h4>
Without the use of chemicals (used by turf care professionals) to prevent worm and wormcasts problems on lawns,
most amateur lawn enthusiasts are limited to cultural control methods. However it is important to understand that
even with a good cultural worm control program you may still be met with limited success.<br />
These cultural methods include:<br />
<ul>
<li>
Reducing the organic matter content - As worms feed on organic matter it makes sense to reduce their
food supply. operations such as scarifying and hollowtining will help reduce the organic matter (thatch)
content. Boxing off clippings when mowing the lawn will prevent organic matter build up. Remove any leaves
from the surface of the lawn during periods of leaf fall in the autumn months.<br />
</li>
<li>
Reduce the pH of the soil - Worms favour a soil with a high pH therefore only apply materials
(fertiliser, top dressings etc) with a low pH. Over a period of time this will gradually reduce the pH and
hopefully reduce the worm population in the lawn.<br />
</li>
</ul>
<h4>
Chemical control of worms in the lawn</h4>
As mentioned earlier, even with good cultural practices to remove worms success can be limited and you may be
left disappointed with the results. <span style="background-color: white;">In the sports turf industry chemicals are used to control worms. However products such a chlordane which were
used many years ago with great success are no longer available.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><br />
The only chemical currently available for worm control is a product called carbendazim which is widely used in
the turf care industry. Carbendazim is actually a fungicide used to control fusarium and other lawn and turf
diseases, however carbendazim also has worm suppressant properties. N. B. carbendazim (unlike previously banned
chemicals) does not kill the worms, it acts more of an irritant and the worms simply go deeper into the soil.<br />
<br />
Although this product is not available for amateur gardeners, professional lawn care companies of which there
are many, can apply this chemical. Therefore if you feel that your worm problem warrants chemical treatment you may
want to enlist the services of one of these lawn care specialist. However like many chemicals used in lawn care,
they should only be used as a last resort.<br />
<h4>
Should I control worms</h4>
In most cases worms are best being left alone as they are good for the soil. The majority of casting will take place during the winter months when there will be little activity on the lawn anyway. If there are is any worm casting they can be brushed off the lawn with a besom (a brush that looks like a witches broom) or similar tool or implement during drier periods in the winter.<br />
<br />
However, other gardeners may spend a lot of time and take great pride in their lawn and due to soil conditions worms may be causing the lawn to deteriorate somewhat. In this case someone may feel that worm control is justified.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-14104512501420512372012-06-23T15:48:00.000+01:002012-07-19T19:12:38.363+01:00Take-all Patch Disease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDqNhTGF0LcxlWmk9FM-R6FeHaw-NFC0s6c7Sh5oAuPeoD8EZOCcvofjTyXOPDxcPYzTZ6cUHdJPYZDSrwRjYHL-i5TPkzoaERqGRPX0Oayo1q4MdFqqZ61oUQZq7d-evrT8G62xTxgs/s1600/take-all-patch-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="take-all patch on a lawn" border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDqNhTGF0LcxlWmk9FM-R6FeHaw-NFC0s6c7Sh5oAuPeoD8EZOCcvofjTyXOPDxcPYzTZ6cUHdJPYZDSrwRjYHL-i5TPkzoaERqGRPX0Oayo1q4MdFqqZ61oUQZq7d-evrT8G62xTxgs/s400/take-all-patch-b.jpg" title="Take-all Patch Disease" width="400" /></a></div>
Fortunately for gardeners Take all patch is not a very common lawn disease, as it
can bequite devastating. The disease is very common on new sand based golf green constructions, where the root zone is still relatively sterile and has not had time to build up a population of micro organisms.<br />
<br />
The disease is usually most active between June and December and primarily attacks bent grass. Until recently there have been no
effective chemical treatments for this disease.<br />
<br />
Take-all patch is often triggered by a sudden rise in the soil pH, especially following an application of lime. In professional turf care it
has long been one of the most destructive diseases on golf and bowling greens, and until recently there has been no
chemical control cure.<br />
<br />
<strong>Identification of take-all patch</strong><br />
<br />
Take-all patch initially shows signs of activity during mid summer in June or July (however in some cases it can
be earlier in the season). The disease appears as saucer shaped depressions of dead or dying bent grass. As the
disease progresses these patches will join together, as they form large irregular patches on the lawn.<br />
<br />
<strong>Causes of take-all patch</strong><br />
<ul>
<li>Bent grass is particularly susceptible to Take all patch disease.</li>
<li>New sand based constructions are particularly susceptible especially if the root zone was sterilised.</li>
<li>Excessive thatch or organic matter build up will encourage take-all patch disease.</li>
<li>Poor surface drainage will encourage the disease, as take-all patch spreads in the moisture.</li>
<li>The use of alkaline materials such as fertiliser, top dressing and lime on the lawn.</li>
</ul>
<strong>Prevention and control of take-all patch</strong><br />
<br />
As turf fungicide use is restricted to professionals and contractors with the relevant qualifications, cultural prevention
and damage limitation of take-all patch disease are the only options for amateur gardeners.<br />
<ul>
<li>Avoid applying materials and top dressings that contain a high content of lime (high pH).</li>
<li>Applications of materials that acidify the surface such as iron sulphate, lawn sand and sulphate of ammonia etc may help minimise the
damage caused by this disease.</li>
<li>Control the build up of thatch with regular scarifying and aeration.</li>
<li>Encourage a dry lawn surface dry by improving the drainage with aeration such as spiking.</li>
<li>If the lawn becomes infected, overseed the infected areas with grass species such as fescue, that are resistant to take-all patch disease.</li>
<li>Maintaining good turf health and vigour with a balanced fertiliser program will help prevent lawn disease.</li>
</ul>
<strong>Chemical control of Take all Patch disease</strong><br />
<br />
Until recently there was no fungicides available for the control of this disease. Presently there are fungicides
on the market that will control Take all patch. However use is restricted to turf professionals such as golf
greenkeepers and lawn care specialists with the relevant pesticide application qualifications.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-83907298225252203052012-06-23T12:42:00.000+01:002014-06-22T20:51:27.973+01:00Red Thread Lawn Disease<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3rMzOd0chDwdVpgCI_BaMT9sOUx54lItstFNcuZY-p9WifBVJNRyIMjH844w0F-WXwSkKVgYZDVMtm6leUQS7opvDD_QorsxNlzi99QZEz2ViWDQTLEYMgpFiaJ9YAT3e_KSiz2BsNn8/s1600/red-thread-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="red thread lawn and turf disease" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3rMzOd0chDwdVpgCI_BaMT9sOUx54lItstFNcuZY-p9WifBVJNRyIMjH844w0F-WXwSkKVgYZDVMtm6leUQS7opvDD_QorsxNlzi99QZEz2ViWDQTLEYMgpFiaJ9YAT3e_KSiz2BsNn8/s320/red-thread-b.jpg" height="244" title="Red Thread" width="320" /></a><br />
Unlike many other lawn and turf diseases red hhread (Laetisaria fuciformis) is
not limited to closely mown luxury lawns. It can infect all types of lawns and turf. However in almost all cases it is
not as serious as some other lawn diseases and the turf will regain health with good management practices.<br />
<br />
<br />
Although it can be a problematic at various times of the year, it is predominantly seen during the summer and autumn months. Although many species of grass can
suffer from red thread, fescue and rye grass are particularly susceptible to this lawn disease.
<br />
<br />
<strong>Identification of red thread</strong><br />
<br />
It is important to be vigilant and look out for irregular patches of pale brown or bleached leaves. Fescue and ryegrass and are particulary
susceptible to Red thread. Initially these patches are 20-30mm in diameter, later increasing to 350mm across, as the
disease takes hold. During periods of moist and damp weather conditions, red needle like strands or threads can be seen on the
leaves of the infected plants.<br />
<br />
<strong>Causes of Red Thread</strong><br />
<br />
Red thread can occur at any time of the year, it is particularly troublesome in the summer and autumn, during warm moist conditions on lawns
suffering from the following symptoms:<br />
<ul>
<li>Soil compaction due to lack or an absence of lawn aeration.</li>
<li>Areas of the lawn that suffer from shade are prone to an attack from this disease.</li>
<li>A deficiency of nitrogen is a contributory factor to an outbreak of Red Thread. (however, do not apply large amounts of nitrogen too late in the season as this
can cause Fusarium patch disease).</li>
</ul>
<strong>Prevention and cure of Red Thread</strong><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Pay attention to maintaining adequate turf nutrition, particularly nitrogen levels, (however high levels of
nitrogen should not be applied too late in the summer as it could lead to Fusarium patch disease.</li>
<li>If Red thread is a perennial problem over seed with a different species of grass. Alternatively choose fescue and rye grass cultivar's that are resistant to
this disease.</li>
<li>Box off grass clippings when mowing the lawn. Remove early morning dews to help keep the grass leaves
dry.</li>
<li>Relieving soil compaction to improve the surface drainage on the lawn by aeration will help reduce red
thread.</li>
<li>If possible prune tree branches back and remove vegetation to improve air flow and increase the amount of sun light. These actions will help keep the surface drier and reduce the risk of Red Thread.</li>
</ul>
<strong>Chemical control of Red Thread</strong><br />
<br />
As this disease rarely kills the grass in all but a few
severe cases, chemical control using fungicides is very seldom needed. However effective fungicides are really only available for turf
professionals such as golf green keepers and groundsmen. For amateur gardeners the choice is very limited.
</div>
Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-51582833027691807842012-06-18T21:07:00.000+01:002012-06-18T21:37:42.460+01:00Fusarium patch disease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdoLzDmrdVeu78VBCe3amLjWMKOYe2PiGAIQMFFYRN1LfBI354J-6vjN-ITrkDLI-qNhtZyxgyuzEOMhEDlE-9IvX9C_7rWT8UXkTm5C1LP0k2_xgWI54bSJV_jzHvs9mG_1fDNkhcsKI/s1600/fusarium-patch-disease-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="fusarium patch" border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdoLzDmrdVeu78VBCe3amLjWMKOYe2PiGAIQMFFYRN1LfBI354J-6vjN-ITrkDLI-qNhtZyxgyuzEOMhEDlE-9IvX9C_7rWT8UXkTm5C1LP0k2_xgWI54bSJV_jzHvs9mG_1fDNkhcsKI/s320/fusarium-patch-disease-b.jpg" title="Fusarium patch disease" width="320" /></a></div>
Fusarium patch disease is the most common and one of the most damaging lawn and turf
diseases. It predominantly occurs in the autumn and winter months between October & March, however it can
strike at any time of the year especially if the conditions are favourable for fusarium.<br />
<br />
The disease is less of a problem on general purpose lawns, fusarium patch disease attacks closely mown luxury
lawns that contains a high percentage of annual meadow grass, this grass species being very susceptible to attack.
The disease is a widespread problem on closely mown sports turf such as golf and bowling greens.<br />
<h4>
<strong>Identify fusarium patch disease</strong></h4>
Fusarium patch disease initially appears on the lawn or in areas of turf as small patches that measure up to
50mm in diameter. The leaves turn an orangy - brown colour and are mushy. Sometimes during early mornig dews, white
cobweb like fungal threads can be seen on the infected areas.<br />
<br />
As the disease quickly spreads the patches increase
in size into larger patches that measure up to 300mm in diameter. As the severity of the attack increases, these
patches can join together causing widespread damage to the lawn.
<br />
<h4>
<strong>Conditions that favour fusarium patch disease</strong></h4>
<ul>
<li>Fusarium patch disease is most active during the cool and damp weather conditions typically associated with
the autumn and winter months.</li>
<li>Excess levels of nitrogen caused by late season applications of high nitrogen feeds will encourage fusarium
patch disease.</li>
<li>Areas of turf and lawns that suffer from shade lack sunlight and air movement, encourage fusarium patch
disease.</li>
<li>An excessive layer of thatch or organic matter build up encourages water retentive turf which in turn
encourages fusarium.</li>
<li>Surface alkalinity (high pH) caused by applications of lime or other materials with a high pH leaves the
grass susceptible to this disease</li>
<li>A lawn that contains a high percentage of annual meadow grass will always be at risk from an attack of
fusarium, as this grass species is very susceptible.</li>
</ul>
<h4>
<strong>Prevention and control of fusarium patch disease</strong></h4>
<ul>
<li>Fungicides are available for turf care professionals such as golf green keepers. Unfortunately for amateur
gardeners the use of fungicides is severely limited and in many cases not allowed, therefore preventing
fusarium patch is all the more important.</li>
<li>Excess nitrogen is a contributing factor in many diseases including Fusarium patch disease. Avoid applying
fertilisers with a high nitrogen content to late in the growing season.</li>
<li>Apply an autumn / winter fertiliser at the end of the growing season with a high potash content. Potash is
an important element for the grass plant during this period as it helps harden the plants against disease.</li>
<li>Where possible prune back vegetation to allow more air and light into the garden. This will help keep the
leaf of the grass dry which is important in preventing this disease from spreading.</li>
<li>Regular mechanical operations like aeration and scarification are important to help control the thatch
layer, thus helping in the fight against fusarium patch disease.</li>
<li>Applications of sulphate of iron based products will help lower the surface pH therefore discouraging
fusarium.</li>
<li>Encourage grasses that are able to tolerate the disease as the expense of annual meadow grass.</li>
</ul>
A proper lawn maintenance program will be geared towards encouraging bent and fescues at the expense of annual
meadow grass. Annual meadow grass is very prone to fusarium patch, whilst bents and fescues are more tolerant to
the disease Gear your lawn maintenance program to promote healthier sward helping it withstand disease and many
other turf care problems. In the world of professional turf care fungicides are used to control fusarium. However
amateur gardeners don't have access to these products, this makes the cultural preventative measures all the more
important. Fungicides can only be applied by turf professions with the relevant spraying certificates.<br />
<h4>
<strong>Chemical control of fusarium patch disease</strong></h4>
Turf professionals such as golf greenkeepers and groundsmen have a big advantage over the amateur gardener, as
they have access to a range of turf fungicides in their fight against disease. Many people prefer to spray a preventative application when the
conditions are conducive to an outbreak of fusarium patch disease.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-1112312883383890622012-06-18T19:59:00.000+01:002012-09-25T20:29:44.615+01:00Lawn Disease<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcAV0KbIg1qMyupJ_PpggaHHDJ41ne83y7AaZtcrrbZqw4Bdcxk3SxH2cvst9ZP5pPRW891rn-jh7M7GvinJV6hdLDEmAuLBgtr8XvzAY4DCgUG0SgZWtexwwKCh8uHa4kKnBTJ-eJ0k/s1600/fusarium-patch-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="fusarium patch lawn disease" border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtcAV0KbIg1qMyupJ_PpggaHHDJ41ne83y7AaZtcrrbZqw4Bdcxk3SxH2cvst9ZP5pPRW891rn-jh7M7GvinJV6hdLDEmAuLBgtr8XvzAY4DCgUG0SgZWtexwwKCh8uHa4kKnBTJ-eJ0k/s320/fusarium-patch-b.jpg" title="Fusarium Patch Disease" width="320" /></a></div>
A lawn disease or turf disease is often defined as anything that has a negative effect on the grass plant. Lawn
Disease, the majority of which are caused by fungi can attack all types of lawns and turf areas. Different diseases
attack luxury lawns and other will attack utility lawns depending on the environmental factors and types of grass
in the lawn.<br />
<br />
For a lawn disease to become active 3 factors must be present.<br />
<ul>
<li>
<strong>Environmental factors -</strong> Grasses can become stressed by different climatic &
maintenance conditions leaving them susceptible to lawn disease. It may be too cold, too dry or too wet, however these conditions are out of our control. Other factors such as mowing heights, drainage, turf nutrition
and irrigation needs can be controlled by us and can play a big part in a successful prevention plan.<br />
<br />
</li>
<li>
<strong>The soil pathogens -</strong>Pathogens are the fungi or bacteria that cause lawn and turf
disease. Many of these pathogens are already present in the organic matter, becoming active if favourable
conditions occur to cause an outbreak of disease. Pathogens can also spread from outside agencies such as
other lawns, playing-fields, parks amongst others.<br />
<br />
</li>
<li>
<strong>The grass species -</strong>Different species of grass are susceptible to different diseases.
e.g. Annual meadow grass suffers from fusarium, and anthracnose, bents suffer from take-all patch, fescues
from red thread etc.<br />
</li>
</ul>
This lawn disease section covers the most common diseases found on lawns and turf throughout the UK. These include:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Fusarium Patch </li>
<li>Red Thread</li>
<li>Take-all Patch </li>
<li>Anthracnose</li>
<li>Dollar Spot</li>
<li>Fairy Rings</li>
<li>Slime Mould</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-51482620072482701922012-06-18T18:54:00.000+01:002012-06-18T19:42:47.739+01:00Chafer Grubs in the lawn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHXb1ur2wIMsrxVaehTeu6FSNSLJJBy-AQfFlG0BMYjwLGKVVwIZHjjsVMSmdlE-1J_inmhj0ioL-AkUNo6NCGuGosbGaDVhNMx1Y5-VUjrDnfvB0ZZJEZ9cPYkq96I3-LI0WdrUG_nE/s1600/chafer-grub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHXb1ur2wIMsrxVaehTeu6FSNSLJJBy-AQfFlG0BMYjwLGKVVwIZHjjsVMSmdlE-1J_inmhj0ioL-AkUNo6NCGuGosbGaDVhNMx1Y5-VUjrDnfvB0ZZJEZ9cPYkq96I3-LI0WdrUG_nE/s1600/chafer-grub.jpg" /></a></div>
Chafer Grubs are the larvae of the Chafer Beetle, which is also known as the May bug. It can often be seen during warm evenings
in the early summer. Chafer grubs have many similarities to Leatherjackets, they feed on the grass roots, the
damage caused it similar and they attract the same predators.<br />
<br />
Although not as common Leatherjackets, Chafer grubs
can live in the soil for up to 3 years before they emerge on the surface as beetles. <span style="background-color: white;">Chafer Grubs can measure up to 15mm in length. The head is light brown and the 'C shaped' body is a creamy -
white colour with 3 pairs of legs on the upper body.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><br />
The adult beetles can measure up to 40mm in length. They have a black thorax with brown legs and wings.<br />
The cycle begins in the adult beetle lays its eggs during the early summer, often in May or June (depending on
the climatic conditions. Shortly afterwards the eggs will hatch and the grubs will feed on the grass roots until
September - October. Following this period of activity they move deeper into the ground for the remaining winter
months. Come spring time they emerge on the surface of the lawn as beetles.<br />
<br />
The damage caused by Chafer grubs is very similar to that caused by Leatherjackets. The grubs feed on the roots
of the grass causing a yellowing effect on the lawn as the grass weakens. The grass can easily be pulled out by
hand due to the damage to the roots. The grubs will reach maturity during August - September, this is when the most
extensive damage to the lawn will occur.<br />
<br />
As with Leatherjackets predators such as birds and mammals will cause further damage as they tear up the turf as
they go in search of these grubs. These predators include badgers, foxes and birds including crows and magpies.<br />
<h4>
Prevention and cure of Chafer Grubs</h4>
Identifying Chafer Grubs problems early is important so be vigilant and look for any abnormal bird activity on
the lawn. Once the problem has been identified the lawn can be treated with a nematode based product available from
most good garden centers.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-23286056297978970382012-06-17T21:35:00.000+01:002012-06-17T21:35:37.722+01:00Leatherjackets in the lawn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMJMqxZ98z_EiY5d4VZECclnIpKMVGrIZqNoUmI9I1TE2mJB3FepbmZ_PBNuN-Zz-QWzW4M_lstYPCvtHRwesyDDhKuhLYpwP-Kxjmj71GW2Y9cjQsjkS16QVRHARSGefO1ZFG-lT5sE/s1600/leatherjacket-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMJMqxZ98z_EiY5d4VZECclnIpKMVGrIZqNoUmI9I1TE2mJB3FepbmZ_PBNuN-Zz-QWzW4M_lstYPCvtHRwesyDDhKuhLYpwP-Kxjmj71GW2Y9cjQsjkS16QVRHARSGefO1ZFG-lT5sE/s1600/leatherjacket-b.jpg" /></a></div>
Leatherjackets are the larvae of the European Crane Fly (Daddy Long Legs) and can cause major damage on the lawn
if they are not effectively controlled. These small legless grubs which have no noticeable head, measure
approximately 25mm long, are grey to brown in colour (see image to the right), and as their name suggests they have a leathery skin.<br />
<br />
Leatherjackets cause damage to the lawn by feeding on the roots of the grass. Further damage which is often more
serious than caused by the leatherjackets is caused predators feeding on the grubs as they tear up the turf. These
predators include birds like crows and rooks and other mammals such as foxes and badgers.<br />
<h4>
Lifecycle of Leatherjackets</h4>
The cycle begins when the Crane Fly lays their eggs, (up to 300) in the lawn during the late autumn. The eggs
hatch after two weeks into Leatherjackets. The Leatherjackets remain in the ground over winter as they grow and
feed on the grass roots.<br />
<br />
They continue feeding and growing into following spring is when the most damage is caused.
During May and June they pupate before they hatch into Crane Flies, where they surface and fly away. The Crane
Flies then mate and the process begins again as they lay their eggs in the autumn.<br />
<h4>
Prevention of Leatherjackets</h4>
In the case of Leatherjackets, prevention is certainly better than the cure for the amateur gardener or
lawn care enthusiast. If you observe a large population of Crane Flies during the later summer / early autumn
period this can be an early indicator that Leatherjackets are likely to be a problem.<br />
<br />
The damage the following spring is often more severe if the autumn - winter period has been particulary wet and
mild. If the infestation is severe the grass will have a yellowing apearance and can easily be pulled out by hand
causes by the grubs eating the roots. Bird damage is a good indicator of a large population of Leatherjackets as
they tear up the turf as they go insearch of the grubs.<br />
<br />
If this is the case there are numerous nematode products that can be applied to control the Leatherjackets.
These nematode products should be applied during the late summer - early autumn when the ground is still relatively
warm. A further application in the spring can be made if the infestation is severe. However it is important to note
that these products require a warm soil to be effective and this is not always the case in the spring time.<br />
<br />
Nematodes are microscopic organisms that kill the Leatherjackets but are harmless. However it is important that you
adhere to the manufacturers guidelines when applying these products.<br />
Another method of removing Leatherjackets is to place a black polythene sheet over the lawn during the night.<br />
<br />
The following morning the Leatherjackets will come to the surface of the lawn where they can be removed. This
method of control is significantly more effective following rainfall when the soil is very wet.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-77846710406217078842012-06-17T19:49:00.000+01:002012-06-17T20:27:01.580+01:00Thatch in the lawn<h4>
What is lawn thatch</h4>
<div style="text-align: right;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ5W-JPoHpRiO6sH0jtJKFWRxjhHqhRVqBg1uG6a2FjGC7V_NRe2iolcMgo039SnmPHo383muqGEzS7Yeb9xVu_sqjqlL-4ll5o383tU-GpkjCD2nu4mk-SckZYyh0N9T_S32Rj0Sx-T8/s1600/thatch-blog-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ5W-JPoHpRiO6sH0jtJKFWRxjhHqhRVqBg1uG6a2FjGC7V_NRe2iolcMgo039SnmPHo383muqGEzS7Yeb9xVu_sqjqlL-4ll5o383tU-GpkjCD2nu4mk-SckZYyh0N9T_S32Rj0Sx-T8/s320/thatch-blog-b.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Lawn thatch is a layer of organic matter that accumulates between the grass sward and the soil (see photo to the right). Thatch or
organic matter is generally decaying plant stems, roots and runners.<br />
A small amount of lawn thatch (about 12mm) is beneficial to the lawn as it creates resilience and improves wear
tolerance.<br />
<br />
However when the accumulation of thatch becomes too excessive (over 25mm) it creates problems,
ultimately resulting in a weak lawn prone to disease, water logging, poor root growth and more.<br />
Therefore it is important to monitor the thatch layer and take remedial action if build up starts to become
excessive.<br />
<br />
Thatch only becomes a problem when the plant produces more debris than what is being broken down naturally. The rate at
which the thatch layer accumulates is determined by certain factors. These include soil conditions, maintenance
program, weather conditions, soil pH and the grass species.<br />
<h4>
The causes of lawn thatch</h4>
Previously we mentioned it is important to monitor thatch build up, however if we understand what causes thatch
build up we can help prevent it becoming a problem. The main causes of build up are:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>
<strong>Over fertilising the lawn with nitrogen</strong> - Too much nitrogen causes the grass to quicker
and in turn produce more organic matter adding to the thatch layer.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Over watering the lawn</strong> - A major contributor to the lawn thatch layer. Thatch is
naturally degraded or broken down by micro organisms. The micro organisms thrive in dry soils that contain
lots of air space. Watering unnecessarily reduces the available air in the soil, thus reducing the
percentage of micro organisms and thatch an natural degradation of the thatch will be reduced.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Grass species</strong> - Certain types of grasses produce more thatch than others. Fescue and
Bent which are very desirable grasses are known to produce thatch rapidly.</li>
</ul>
<h4>
Why is thatch bad for a lawn</h4>
As we have touched upon previously a little thatch is good for a lawn as it creates resilience and insulates the
lawn. However when there is excessive thatch it causes major problems on the health of the lawn which include.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>
<strong>Pest and diseases -</strong> An excessive thatch layer is an ideal environment for many lawn and
turf pests and disease such as moss, worms and fusarium patch disease.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Poor surface drainage</strong> - Thatch is very water retentive and inhibits drainage, this in
turn encourages disease, moss, weeds.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Shallow rooted weed grasses</strong> - Desirable grasses such as Bents and Fescues prefer dry
free draining soils and will be replaced with water loving shallow rooted grasses like Annual Meadow
Grass.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Poor drought tolerance</strong> - As thatch encourages shallow rooting grasses, the lawn is will
naturally have poor drought tolerance during dry periods.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Reduce the effectiveness of chemicals and fertilisers</strong> - Certain lawn care products are
more effective if they can penetrate into the soil (root zone). An excessive thatch layer inhibits soil
penetration, therefore effectiveness of the products is reduced.</li>
</ul>
<h4>
How to control and prevent thatch</h4>
Preventing the build up of thatch with the correct cultural practices and lawn care program is better than
having to deal with thatch once it has become a problem. A sound management program will help slow down build up
and at the same time increase the speed at which thatch degrades. These cultural practices include.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>
<strong>Correct use of fertilisers</strong> - Avoid applying too much nitrogen during the growing
season. Too much nitrogen encourages excessive growth and the grass will produce organic matter at an
increased rate.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Avoid over watering the lawn</strong> - Don't water the lawn unless it is starting to show signs
of drought stress. If you do irrigate the lawn, water heavily and infrequently letting the lawn dry out
between each watering. Avoid watering little and often as this keeps the soil moist for longer periods and
will have a detrimental affect on the micro organisms which break down thatch.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Employ a regular aeration program</strong> - Aeration plays an important part in the breakdown
of thatch in the lawn. The micro organisms (bacteria which breakdown thatch) thrive in dry soils with lots
of air space.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Employ a regular scarification program</strong> - Scarifying at key times during the year
(spring and autumn) will physically remove lawn thatch and keep the layer at an acceptable level.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Employ a regular scarifying program</strong> - Scarifying removes lateral growth and thatch and
keeps the accumulation of thatch in check.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><strong>Top dressing</strong> - Top dressing the lawn will help dilute the thatch layer. It is very
beneficial to top dress after aeration (particularly hollow tining) as the dressing can be worked into the
upper soil profile. This helps increase airspace and remove surface water encouraging the breakdown of
thatch.</li>
</ul>
<h4>
Removing lawn thatch</h4>
If the thatch layer has reached an unacceptable level and is having an adverse effect on the lawn it will need
removing. The two most effective methods of removal are scarification and / or aeration using hollow
tines.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbRhC97_5Nb6fpY_CSbhLahspkcVxXfnigt3EU7lfDGuBi8h5hprj9FTYD38eTc63t8YYGXINMrv_0E16kUixSf6uCJ2hCdLZB3vk5sjodIR0rtlpEtix2Trm5HbIkoQNFdsctjXSyDk4/s1600/thatch-removal-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="lawn thatch removal" border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbRhC97_5Nb6fpY_CSbhLahspkcVxXfnigt3EU7lfDGuBi8h5hprj9FTYD38eTc63t8YYGXINMrv_0E16kUixSf6uCJ2hCdLZB3vk5sjodIR0rtlpEtix2Trm5HbIkoQNFdsctjXSyDk4/s320/thatch-removal-b.jpg" title="Removing thatch with a lawn scarifier" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><strong>Scarification</strong> - The most effective and most common method of removing thatch is by scarification. This process involves a powered machine, fitted with a row of vertical tines or blades, which penetrate into the surface of the lawn to remove thatch (see photo to the right). The ideal times for scarifying is during the spring and autumn. However it is important that there is sufficient growth for the lawn to make a complete recovery as scarifying can leave the lawn looking thin and sparse.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<ul>
<li><strong>Hollow tining</strong> - Another effective way of removing thatch from a lawn is by hollow tine
aeration. This is the process of removing small cores of thatch / soil in the upper soil profile. It is removed by the tines which are basically hollow tubes which are pushed or punched into the
surface of the lawn. This operation can be carried out using either a hand held hollow tine fork or
implement or alternatively a powered aerator fitted with hollow tines. Again spring and autumn are the
preferred times for this task.</li>
</ul>
Both of these methods when used in conjunction with lawn top dressing will be beneficial in helping with the<br />
breakdown of thatch.Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-27219374244472248942012-06-11T10:32:00.000+01:002012-06-11T10:32:55.129+01:00Starweed - Buckshorn Plantain<em>Plantago coronopus</em><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwqyoXg5HlCmyRSz2Acsdcj6aeTA3ZGZBnwajiU93D1kq_iacuZqCKqVtd3uL1bvA8IJdUuJepKOvh0WhZ3PqLuGNZAFgsb8GbwNdqv884N-1J6lh9Woll41jXelTzt8mW-vVJol0ADWw/s1600/starweed-4g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="starweed - buckshorn plantain" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwqyoXg5HlCmyRSz2Acsdcj6aeTA3ZGZBnwajiU93D1kq_iacuZqCKqVtd3uL1bvA8IJdUuJepKOvh0WhZ3PqLuGNZAFgsb8GbwNdqv884N-1J6lh9Woll41jXelTzt8mW-vVJol0ADWw/s320/starweed-4g.jpg" title="Starweed - Buckshorn Plantain" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General</strong> - Starweed also widely known as
Buckshorn Plantain is an annual or
perennial weed, it is very common on sandy free draining coastal sites. This weed grows as a flat rosette
type plant that can tolerate close mowing.<br />
<br />
<strong>Leaves</strong> - The leaves are long and thin with prominent toothed edges. They are generally
hairy but can be occasionally smooth.<br />
<br />
<strong>Flowers</strong> - The small cylindrical flowers are bourn on a long stalk and flower between
May and October.<br />
<br />
<strong>Roots</strong> - Starweed produces a strong tap root.<br />
<br />
<strong>Habitat</strong> - This weed can grow in many habitats but prefers sandy free draining soils. It
is very common on coastal sites.<br />
<br />
<strong>Cultural Control</strong> - Starweed can be hand weeded, but be sure to remove the
whole plant. As weeds are opportunistic and look for bare areas of soil, a good maintenance program that
encourages a thick sward will help discourage lawn weeds.<br />
<br />
<strong>Chemical Control</strong> - If the weed is kept in check by the cultural methods, chemicals
should rarely be needed to control Starweed. However if the problem is widespread, most selective
weed killers will kill this weed. All selective weed killers are more effective during periods of active
growth, usually between April and September.<br />
<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-47434826280849198192012-06-10T19:01:00.000+01:002012-06-10T19:16:23.063+01:00Ribwort Plantain<em>Plantago lanceolata</em><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zH5eYzYSJnUJEaE7omguaQB5LYebSvaHd_-U0fQu_B0EZzWQsOuwXPiVRfaYu_0MpdRHV2xmujh3SIZY6KEmwdD4IIvEOSVdxDHk6fr23cKBqHZk4GIoiqCDcPHranmtPzd_sBSeUi0/s1600/ribwort-plantain-2g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="ribwort plantain" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0zH5eYzYSJnUJEaE7omguaQB5LYebSvaHd_-U0fQu_B0EZzWQsOuwXPiVRfaYu_0MpdRHV2xmujh3SIZY6KEmwdD4IIvEOSVdxDHk6fr23cKBqHZk4GIoiqCDcPHranmtPzd_sBSeUi0/s320/ribwort-plantain-2g.jpg" title="Ribwort Plantain" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General</strong> - Ribwort Plantain is a common perennial weed, it can be found in all types of turf and grassland. Like all Plantains they can adapt to tolerate close mowing. This weed is also known as Narrow Leaf Plantain.<br />
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<strong>Leaves</strong> - The leaves are long and narrow with prominent ribs or veins. The leaves grow from a single point and form a flat rosette.<br />
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<strong>Flowers</strong> - The short flowers are bourn on a long stalk, flowering between April and October.<br />
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<strong>Roots</strong> - Ribwort Plantain is a shallow rooting plant with a fibrous root system.<br />
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<strong>Habitat</strong> - This weed can adapt to all types of soil conditions, especially dry, compact soils with a high pH.<br />
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<strong>Cultural Control</strong> - As Plantains grow as individual plants hand weeding will prove successful, taking care to remove the whole plant. Relieving soil compaction with aeration will help prevent this weed. Encouraging a healthy lawn with good lawn care practices will help suppress weed invasion.<br />
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<strong>Chemical Control</strong> - If you go down the chemical route, consider spot treating the weed. Ribwort Plantain is susceptible to most selective weed killers. When applying chemicals follow the manufactures guidelines for the best results.
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-85912751528569513062012-06-10T18:17:00.001+01:002012-06-10T18:19:14.475+01:00Greater Plantain<em>Plantago major</em><br />
<span id="goog_613379389"></span><span id="goog_613379390"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqw2_by8Y8LX2T-Z-GFKI7gGYJfqUeNbdyouerpx86znvwQdCjW2HRsAOLGYbUH-ZhpUY8Pu_eiwiwDVVeieLBkfjtQ1SrJyrMR9JP9X9GR9I-Ndfji962CowJ5uuOQNsJMQ9TU7dewE/s1600/greater-plantain-1g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="greater plantain" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqw2_by8Y8LX2T-Z-GFKI7gGYJfqUeNbdyouerpx86znvwQdCjW2HRsAOLGYbUH-ZhpUY8Pu_eiwiwDVVeieLBkfjtQ1SrJyrMR9JP9X9GR9I-Ndfji962CowJ5uuOQNsJMQ9TU7dewE/s320/greater-plantain-1g.jpg" title="Greater Plantain" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General</strong> - Greater Plantain is a perennial weed, it is a rosette type weed very
common on compacted soils and is often a good indication of lawns suffering from compaction. This low
growing weed can tolerate close mowing and reproduces by seed.<br />
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<strong>Leaves</strong> - The large broad oval leaves have prominent parallel ribs, the leaves all grow
from a single point and form a flat rosette.<br />
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<strong>Flowers</strong> - Bourn on a single stem the flower forms as a dense cone of smaller green
flowers, later turning brown. Greater Plantain flowers between May and October.<br />
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<strong>Roots</strong> - The roots of this shallow rooting weed are fibrous.<br />
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<strong>Habitat</strong> - Greater Plantain prefers dry, compacted and alkaline soils but can adapt to
most conditions.<br />
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<strong>Cultural Control</strong> - Hand weed, taking care to remove the while plant. Remove the flower
heads before they turn brown and start to seed. As Greater Plantain prefers compacted soil, remedy this
problem with aeration. Keeping the lawn in a healthy condition will encourage a tight sward and deter any
weeds.<br />
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<strong>Chemical Control</strong> - Chemical weed control should ideally be only be used as last resort,
when all other methods of control have been exhausted. Greater Plantain is not a difficult weed to control
and there are many weed killers available that will control this weed.<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-595415659108086722012-06-10T16:26:00.000+01:002012-06-10T16:26:09.466+01:00Scarlet Pimpernel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<strong>General Information:</strong> Scarlet Pimpernel also known as 'Poor Man's Weatherglass'
is an annual weed. The leaves are very similar to those of Common Chickweed. However this weed can be identified by its
square stems and red flowers (Common chickweed stems are round and the flower is white). Scarlet Pimpernel is not a weed found in fine turf, is confined to neglected lawns, bare areas and waste ground.<br />
<br />
<strong>Leaf:</strong> As previously stated, the leaves are quite similar to
Common Chickweed. They are light green in colour, oval shaped and from in pairs at intervals
on the stems.<br />
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<strong>Flower:</strong> The distinct flowers of Scarlet Pimpernel can be seen from June -
September. Each flower consists of five petals which are an orangey - reddish colour.<br />
<br />
<strong>Preferred habitat:</strong> Scarlet Pimpernel thrives in moist soil conditions.<br />
<br />
<strong>Control:</strong> As we have previously mentioned this weed is more of a problem in rough
and neglected lawns. It can be discouraged with regular mowing, which will make it disappear. It should not be a problem in lawns that receive regular mowing and routine maintenance.<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-67073490101241021552012-06-10T15:07:00.000+01:002012-06-10T15:19:31.717+01:00Black Medic<em>Medicago lupulina</em>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh158HJFrnK80o7vHFkBuOVMzTlXr-QuuJCurbUSRUasK2diS0ZtEjIRrP1xnw79LVSyWldXPeqznLADMusdhkfuGQju3wSCpP0dwKYvw5dxQvv0lvCAKyAVLW6CPyhyEjvDXzEs99Ntn8/s1600/black-medic-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="black medic" border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh158HJFrnK80o7vHFkBuOVMzTlXr-QuuJCurbUSRUasK2diS0ZtEjIRrP1xnw79LVSyWldXPeqznLADMusdhkfuGQju3wSCpP0dwKYvw5dxQvv0lvCAKyAVLW6CPyhyEjvDXzEs99Ntn8/s320/black-medic-b.jpg" title="Black Medic" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General Information:</strong> Black Medic can be both an annual and perennial weed. It
is very similar in appearance to Lesser Trefoil (Yellow Suckling Clover), however Black Medic is
less common than Lesser Trefoil, especially on fine turf as it is usually confined to neglected lawns. The
main difference and the best way to distinguish between the two weeds, is that the seed pods turn
black at the end of the season on Black Medic (see pictures below).<br />
<br />
<strong>Leaf:</strong> Black Medic leaves form as 3 leaflets similar in appearance to White Clover and Lesser
Trefoil. The leaflets of Black medic can have a pointed tip (not always the case), which is not seen on the
others.<br />
<br />
<strong>Flower:</strong> The small yellow flowers can be seen between the months of April and
October. Again similar to Yellow Suckling Clover, but when ripe the pods turn black on Black Medic.<br />
<br />
<strong>Preferred Habitat:</strong> Black Medic prefers nutrient deficient, dry soils, particularly on lawns that have been neglected.<br />
<br />
<strong>Cultural control:</strong> As this weed is an annual hand weeding can prove effective, especially
if the plants are few in number. Maintain good turf vigour with a balanced feed program, this will
encourage a thick coverage of grass to help discourage weeds invading. Regular light scarification
or raking prior to mowing will help remove and weaken Black Medic.<br />
<br />
<b>Chemical Control:</b> If however they have spread into larger patches, chemical control will be necessary using a
selective weed killer from the list below. In most cases more than one application will be needed
for successful control, as Black medic is a stubborn weed to control with chemicals. Once the weed has been removed or controlled the bare area can be filled
with a mixture of suitable soil and grass seed to aid recovery.<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-41707922393207091772012-06-09T21:36:00.003+01:002012-06-09T21:39:12.572+01:00Smooth Hawksbeard<em>Crepis capillaris</em><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9_ABHuxBDpi8pK3W2QKdccGdjcIjeaEUu2BOQBtc4WJeYqHK6LSYjWdBbCsSsHm8e9j81ks3piQMj_SkDA6R8gba6BH0rN4qV4lYu5y1J3UWjK8tjy0YEBTeDMLehgtcUE1pRtap9qs/s1600/smoothhawksbeard-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="smooth hawksbeard" border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG9_ABHuxBDpi8pK3W2QKdccGdjcIjeaEUu2BOQBtc4WJeYqHK6LSYjWdBbCsSsHm8e9j81ks3piQMj_SkDA6R8gba6BH0rN4qV4lYu5y1J3UWjK8tjy0YEBTeDMLehgtcUE1pRtap9qs/s320/smoothhawksbeard-b.jpg" title="Smooth Hawksbeard" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General</strong> - Smooth Hawksbeard can be an annual or biennial. It is not normally a
problem on mown lawns and turf but can occasionally be a problem during dry periods. The weed forms as a
rosette type weed with a deep taproot.<br />
<br />
<strong>Leaves</strong> - The leaves are similar to those of dandelion but are smaller in size. The leaf
is narrow with deeply toothed lobes.<br />
<br />
<strong>Flower</strong> - Smooth Hawksbeard flowers are very similar to other Dandelion like weeds such
as Cats Ear and Autumn Hawkbit. The distinct yellow flowers can be seen between June and October.<br />
<br />
<strong>Roots</strong> - Smooth Hawksbeard has a long fleshy taproot.<br />
<br />
<strong>Habitat</strong> - This weed prefers dry, sandy, free draining soils.<br />
<br />
<strong>Cultural Control</strong> - Physically remove individual plants by hand weeding taking care to
remove the whole taproot. Maintain adequate turf vigour with a balanced fertiliser program to encourage a thick sward which will prevent the invasion
of weeds.<br />
<br />
<strong>Chemical Control</strong> - Chemicals should ideally be only used as a last resort after all
other cultural methods have been exhausted. Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and
mecoprop-p or 2,4-D and dicamba or alternatively a weed killer containing fluroxypyr should be equally
effective. A further application may be needed to control Smooth Hawksbeard.<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-34844388808867452812012-06-09T21:32:00.000+01:002012-06-09T21:32:19.459+01:00Bristly-ox Tongue<em>Picris echioides</em>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC46zYWahwGuvCZC9r7EJIWnN6Bd17IsLaEgo2uwqlwGi4saO79VLTDRraeVI53iPLz4m02Y7HMEfuxGR6OgviA7vq0sRnEyW3YyfJbBLwreR4MD-r39gx9SnqCafQxDuops28Qpl929c/s1600/bristy-ox-tongue-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="bristly-ox tongue" border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC46zYWahwGuvCZC9r7EJIWnN6Bd17IsLaEgo2uwqlwGi4saO79VLTDRraeVI53iPLz4m02Y7HMEfuxGR6OgviA7vq0sRnEyW3YyfJbBLwreR4MD-r39gx9SnqCafQxDuops28Qpl929c/s320/bristy-ox-tongue-b.jpg" title="Bristly-ox Tongue" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General Information:</strong> Bristly ox-tongue is a dandelion type weed which is both
annual and biennial.<br />
<br />
It is not often found in well maintained lawns, it is more confined to
general purpose and neglected lawns.<br />
<br />
The weed forms as a basal plant and will adapt to tolerate close mowing if needed.<br />
<br />
However it can reach a height of 1 metre if left alone and allowed to grow.<br />
<br />
<strong>Leaf:</strong> Bristly ox-tongue has long narrow oblong shaped leaves.<br />
<br />
Each leaf has
many whitish swollen pimples which are rough and bristly, which can cause some irritation and discomfort when handled.<br />
<br />
The weed takes it name from the characteristics of the leaves.<br />
<br />
<strong>Flowers:</strong> Bristly ox-tongue flowers are can be seen from June to September,
as it produces clusters of yellow Dandelion type flowers.<br />
<br />
Each flower is capable of reaching up to 25mm in diameter.<br />
<br />
<strong>Habitat:</strong> Bristly ox-tongue will grow on a wide range of soil types. However it is usually confined to bare ground and neglected areas of turf.<br />
<br />
<strong>Control:</strong> Hand weed any individual plants. For a large infestation a selective
herbicide will have to be used.<br />
<br />
Use a selective weed killer containing a mixture of 2,4-D, Dicamba
and Mecoprop-p, repeat again 6 weeks later if necessary.<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-21448438776343488822012-06-09T19:54:00.000+01:002012-06-09T19:55:43.125+01:00Cats Ear<em>Hypochaeris radicata</em><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Dbo5oTzISRbHN0GFZojANfExRNpPgQTP2TGmsQSaiCJKDQMK0SA3H24LLvkoAfQrm7rEnMxJYw2BESoUXK2mqgvHbFUb3o3hiRcxXsEAlIq0zh-7PYSVyNKcWj-I6KZDS329PlRMZBY/s1600/catsear-2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="cats ear" border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Dbo5oTzISRbHN0GFZojANfExRNpPgQTP2TGmsQSaiCJKDQMK0SA3H24LLvkoAfQrm7rEnMxJYw2BESoUXK2mqgvHbFUb3o3hiRcxXsEAlIq0zh-7PYSVyNKcWj-I6KZDS329PlRMZBY/s320/catsear-2b.jpg" title="Cats Ear" width="320" /></a></div>
<strong>General</strong> - Cats Ear has a perennial lifecycle and is a problem weed on all types of lawn.<br />
<br />
It grows in a prostate rosette type appearance and will quite happily tolerate close mowing.<br />
<br />
Cats Ear has some similarities with the Dandelion in its appearance.<br />
<br />
However the leaves on Cats Ear are hairy and the lobes are more rounded.<br />
<br />
<strong>Leaves</strong> - The lance shaped leaves are hairy and irregularly lobed. They form in a rosette appearance.<br />
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<strong>Flowers</strong> - Cats Ear flowers are similar to those of the Dandelion but smaller in size. They can be seen between May to September<br />
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<strong>Roots</strong> - Cats Ear has a deep tap root.<br />
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<strong>Habitat</strong> -This weed can grow on a wide range of soil conditions, but prefers sandy free draining soils.<br />
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<strong>Cultural Control</strong> - Hand weeding Cats Ear can be effective, however make sure the whole root is removed or it can regenerate.<br />
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Mow the lawn regularly and remove the clippings to prevent flower and seed head formation.<br />
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Maintain turf nutrition with a balanced fertiliser program, this will encourage a healthy vigorous sward that will discourage weed invasion.<br />
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<strong>Chemical Control</strong> - Cats Ear can be controlled using a weed killer. Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and mecoprop-p or 2,4-D and dicamba or clopyralid and fluroxypyr.<br />
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Any of these formulations should be effective against Cats Ear, however a further application maybe needed for satisfactory results.<br />
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</table>Simonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08688316205120285829noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-632980059002020743.post-65932604176834510722012-06-09T19:08:00.001+01:002012-06-09T19:11:53.336+01:00Autumn Hawkbit<em>Leontodon autumnalis</em><br />
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<strong>General</strong> - Autumn Hawkbit is a perennial weed that grows in a rosette formation, it is generally not a serious problem on mown lawns and turf.<br />
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It is more common in longer grass such as roadside verges and meadows. <br />
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<strong>Leaves</strong> - The leaves are very narrow with deep lobes, however the leaves can vary between plants and can sometimes be confused with those of Cats Ear.<br />
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<strong>Flowers</strong> - Autumn Hawkbit flowers are similar to those of Dandelion but smaller in size. The yellow flowers can be seen between July and October.<br />
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<strong>Roots</strong> - Autumn Hawkbit has a tap root.<br />
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<strong>Habitat</strong> - Autumn Hawkbit can tolerate a wide range of conditions, especially poorly drained soils.<br />
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<strong>Cultural Control</strong> - The weed can be physically removed by hand weeding, taking great care to remove all of the root.<br />
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Encourage a thick sward of grass to prevent any weeds taking advantage of any weak or thin areas on the lawn.<br />
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<strong>Chemical Control</strong> - If chemicals are to be used spot treatment is an ideal option for Autumn Hawkbit control.<br />
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Choose a selective weed killer that contains 2,4-D and mecoprop-p, a further application may be necessary about 6 weeks later to control this weed.<br />
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Selective weed killers should be applied when the weeds are actively growing usually between April and September.<br />
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